If you have been in Peru for even a few days, you have probably already been introduced to a quick look at history, geography and other subjects. In this article, I am going to describe unique “tradiciones” or traditions, especially for those living in Lima. While you are in Lima, you are going to be exposed to one of the world´s most interesting and ancient cultures. The more that you know about this culture the easier it will be for you to understand and accept it.

Peruvians are very affectionate people. They shake hands any time they meet somebody, and if they know you even moderately well, expect a warm embrace (abrazo). It does not matter whom they salute, shaking hands with a man, and kissing on the cheek for a woman, is the norm. If you are in Peru and you do not shake hands when you meet somebody you may inadvertently offend that person.

Peruvians do not like to stand in line. They simply do not have much respect or patience for it. They might line up at the movie theater, but certainly not to pay taxes or cue up at a restaurant. They just want to be the first. However, over the past few years there have been changes and now there is a growing respect for lines and not nearly as much pushing or shoving as there was in the past.

Driving:
This is a very hot issue. If you are planning to drive your own car in Lima, I recommend you take a trip to Miami first, for some initial training. Miami still has plenty of Latin drivers that have not changed their native driving habits. At least two days of training will make your driving in Lima much less traumatic. Limeños are the worst drivers in the world, and proud of it. The absolute worst of the Limeños are the Taxi and Microbus drivers, who are convinced that all the streets in Lima are their exclusive domain, and they have no qualm about cutting you off. Do not expect a policeman to intervene. As one policeman once said, “it´s not worth the paperwork!”

There are not that many traffic lights in Lima so they have intersections with streets coming in all directions. All the intersection traffic is usually handled by traffic police officers. Well this is not too bad, but you need additional eyes to see the whole picture and understand what is happening. The real disasters, however, are the intersections with traffic lights or stop signs. Who says that a green light means go, and a red means stop? In Lima, if you stop at a red light when there are no vehicles crossing, the other drivers may think you are an idiot. If you have another car behind you, it is likely the driver will begin honking his horn in displeasure at the crime you have committed.

Drivers do not respect the pavement striping either. You will often see another car trying to squeeze in the same lane as your vehicle. You better look at both side mirrors (or better through both door windows) to make sure you do not have an unexpected lane companion (remember they do not like to stand in lines).

Unless you want to lose your sanity, stay away for those round plazas (Ovalos) that have five or more streets merging together. I myself forgot this once several years ago, and I was on the verge of cardiac arrest for the entire hour I spent traversing a distance of barely 500 feet. I eventually escaped, shaken but unscathed. I cannot say that traffic was bumper to bumper; that would be a gross understatement. Because I was merging into the round plaza, I had vehicles ranging from small Ticos to the famous combis (small buses) brushing up against my car from every conceivable direction! I was able to move my car only inches at a time, constantly fearful of other vehicles that immediately pounced on the opportunity to move into the resulting gap. I knew that if I gave up an inch I would be sitting there forever. There were moments that it would have been impossible to get out of the car because of the vehicles blocking the doors. Since that experience, I have decided it is best to take a taxi. This allows you to relax and read the paper or a magazine while remaining blissfully ignorant of the enormous risks your driver is invariably taking.

Food:
There are some other really great ”tradiciones” here that are part of the staple diet, so you should try them.

Take for example “anticuchos”- the flame braised Shish kabob of marinated beef hearts. Anticuchos are made with beef hearts chopped into bite sized pieces, that have been marinated all night in a mixture of garlic, vinegar, herb seasonings and then grilled on a hot charcoal brazier for a few minutes. It is a delight to eat them after the show of seeing them cooked. There are now versions of this with beef steak chunks, chicken and even fish, but the traditional and best are still the beef hearts.

Down your anticuchos with a “Pisco Sour,” that incredible invention which is a mix of: Pisco (Peru’s white grape brandy), juice of the local “limones,” sugar, some egg whites and angostura bitters. These ingredients are all beaten in a blender with ice, for one of the most delicious cocktails you will ever have.

You must also try “Cebiche” (marinated raw fish) and while everyone has their own recipe, the basics are:

Start with about 200 grams of fresh white fish, cut into bite size chunks. Add the juice of about three “limones,” “aji limo” (cut into small strips), a few red onion slices (well-washed first), salt and pepper to taste, and let marinate for 3-4 minutes. It is usually served on a plate with a cold boiled sweet potato, and/or boiled corn. While it may sound strange don’t knock it until you´ve tried it!

Do not be afraid to try some other typical Lima dishes such as Aji de Gallina (shredded chicken cooked in a creamy sauce of aji and nuts), or "lomo saltado" (that incredible dish of quick pan fried steak chunks, tomatoes, and fried potatoes, served over white rice, in an unforgettable sauce). And for these cold winter days, try the typical Arequipa soup-“Chupe de Camarones” (crayfish stew).

And for desert, try Lima’s most famous, the “Suspiro Limena,” a combination of beaten eggs, cooked condensed milk and sugar, that will leave you wondering who could have invented such a heavenly dish. Or if it is in Sept/Oct, try the "Turron de Dona Pepa." A combination of layers of soft baked cake with honey and colorful decorations, a Lima favorite. Another famous Lima desert is “picarones,” a hot fried doughnut made of squash and sweet potato batter, served with cane syrup poured over it. It is obvious Limeños have never worried about cholesterol or diabetes.

A few of the best places to try some of these typical dishes are - “Jose Antonio” both in San Isidro and Chacarilla, the “Rinconcito Bolivarano” in Pueblo Libre, or try “Pepe’s” in Miraflores for great anticuchos. Just remember to take a taxi there, and don´t look up, especially when you go through the Ovalos!