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Lima to Huancayo on the Train
By Miles Buest

South American Explorers Club

The Lima to Huancayo Railroad was the highest in the world until 2005. That honour is now held by a Chinese-built line going through Tibet. Even so, when we at the South American Explorers Club heard that 'the highest train in the Americas' was making one of its infrequent journeys, we jumped at the chance to ride it, notwithstanding the off-putting 0700 departure time, or scheduled 10 hour journey time.

Not a Bullet

The Bullet, it is not in this scheduled time, it only covers 200 miles (364km)!! But it does go from sea level (just behind the Presidential Palace in central Lima) to 4,818m (14,694ft) at its highest point before finally reaching Huancayo at 3,254m (9,924ft). In doing so, it passes through the spectacular mountain scenery of the Central Highway and Peru's mining heartland.

The company operating the line, Ferrovias, had invested some half a million dollars in new rolling stock, but they might well be asking for their money back. In our journey we experienced a number of design and construction flaws. For example, the new carriages leaked, the air conditioning did not work and the windows were not designed to be opened. When the train braked suddenly because of a rock on the line, all the drinks in the bar went everywhere.

Wrong Direction

The PA system could only be heard intermittently and often competed with the piped music. The seats all faced the same direction, which is fine if you only go in one direction. Unfortunately, this train changes direction after 2 hours, and so all the carriages had to be turned around as well, one by one!

Actually watching this process close-up was fascinating. However, it took over an hour, which might have been a factor in the delay to our arrival. Then, unfortunately, the last hour of the journey was done in the pitch black because the lights did not work.

Since the train was too long for the platform at Huancayo, we had to clamber up about 4 feet from the trackside, with luggage. For a grand finale, there was an explosion in the buffet car as we were walking out of the station.

Still, it was an adventure and we loved it. You will be happy to hear that Ferrovias is planning an increased service in 2007, with at least one departure a month. For further information you can contact them at www.ferroviasperu.com.pe

The South American Explorers Club is located in Miraflores at 135 Calle Piura. Their phone number is 445-3306. Web-site: www.saexplorers.org

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