TARMA,
Pearl of the Andes
By Ray Remington Jr.
Five hours due east of Lima is the small town of Tarma. Perhaps the best part about Tarma is getting there. The trip is spectacular, and the road is good.
Emerging out of the fog by the time you get to Chaclacayo, less than an hour's drive, brings you into blue skies and bright sunshine. The Carretera Central then follows the Rio Rimac through a variety of landscapes including subtropical valleys, sheer rock canyons and desolate puna or plains.
Following this route you will go from sea level in Lima to the town of Ticlio and the Anticona Pass at 4820 meters (15,080 feet) in just two hours. Some bring oxygen just in case this sudden change will cause discomfort. The deep blue of the sky and the snow covered mountains offer a dramatic change from the grey of Lima.
Then the road begins a descent on the other side of the mountains passing through some grimy mining towns and a rocky bare landscape. The mining town of La Oroya features the famous Doe Run Mine and a River Rimac that is supposedly recovering from years of pollution.
As you continue the descent into Tarma, you see a change into semi-tropical foliage that offers a pleasantly green landscape.
The city, located in a narrow valley, is known as the ¨Pearl of the Andes”. The altitude here is about 900 meters or approximately 3,000 feet. It can be a little chilly at night, but the days are sunny and pleasantly warm.
The climate and the clean pure air make it a wonderful escape from Lima. Many come for just that reason. Just to relax and to enjoy the pleasant surroundings.
Tarma and the surrounding area is famous for flowers. You see small flower farms on entering the city. At some times of the year there are flowers everywhere.
It also offers bright clear skies during the day and night. In fact, during the months of June through August, Tarma provides an excellent opportunity for stargazing. Something you can rarely do in Lima.
While a pleasant enough place, there is really little to see in Tarma. Locals told us that the town is famous for its festivals, especially the one at Easter time. During that time, a huge flower carpet is laid with lots of distinctive designs.
There are really two reasons to spend time in Tarma. The first is that it is a tranquil place close enough to Lima for a getaway weekend where you can enjoy different scenery and rest up.
The second reason is the small villages around Tarma where one can buy native handicrafts and enjoy the tranquil beauty of the country-side. In the nearby village of Acobamba you can visit the famous religious shrine of El Senor de Muruhuay . Tours and individual drivers are available to take you around.
In Tarma we stayed at Los Portales, a resort hotel on the edge of town. The hotel was constructed by the former president of Peru, Dr. Manuel Odria, almost fifty years ago. It appears that it has not been remodeled in that period of time. While comfortable enough, the hotel does seem pricey for what is offered. A breakfast buffet is included and the dining room provided good service and well prepared meals.
Our quick trip to Tarma reminded us of how refreshing it is to just get away from your daily life and experience something completely different. The batteries have to be re-charged once in a while, and this is a good place to do it.
<< Back