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Destination Peru
Callejón de Conchucos / Conchucos Valley
Part II: Amazing Chacas
By M. Antonieta Alfaro-Snively

Hospital in Chacas (Photo: Scott Snively)

The Basílica, close to San Luis and Chacas (Photo: Scott Snively)

Mountains peaks and clouds at the highest point of the pass (heaven), crossing The Cordillera Blanca, going from the Callejon de Conchucos to the Callejon de Huaylas. (Photo: M. Antonieta Alfaro-Snively

Callejón de Conchucos (Photo: Scott Snively)   Dinner with local children and missionaries of Mato Grosso at Chacas. (Photo: Scott Snively)

You may have seen some beautiful pieces of furniture and stone sculptures during an exhibition at the Museo de la Nación under the name of Artesanos Don Bosco during late October and early November last year. They were from Chacas, a town in the Northern part of the Callejón de Conchucos - where my husband and I set off after enjoying our time in Chavin (see “Part I: Rediscovering Chavín” in February issue).

Passing the town of Huari, you see something different in the houses and buildings. The materials are no longer only adobe left in its natural color, but also rocks and concrete painted in white. You can find more and more of this type of construction as you approach other towns closer to San Luis and Chacas. But we could not see much of this. Due to some road construction and restrictions we had to stop on the road, and darkness fell. The trip was an experience of its own. Imagine this: no lights, only the one provided by our truck, in the middle of the highlands …no town on sight… in a curvy unpaved road…all dark…The remedy? Listen a CD of Alan Parson Project, and pretend to have as much fun as we had at that concert! Wisely none of us shared at that time what was at the back of our heads (what if…). You can imagine how glad we were to make it to Chacas, find our place La Casa de Pilar, relax and get a good rest.

Next morning it was Sunday (the day of the Referendum) and we were ready to see it all. We went to the Cathedral where we met father Lorenzo and an amazing story was revealed to us, along with all the commitment and dedication of an excellent group of individuals wanting to help others in need:

“In 1967 the operation Mato Grosso was born. An initiative of young people, created from the heart and fantasy of an Italian priest, a son of Don Bosco, father Hugo De Censi… Their motif: enough words, let's take action. Hundreds of adolescents volunteering in Italy (collecting iron, paper, clothing; building refuges, doing agricultural work, etc.) collect money to send it to the missions and they themselves go to live for months or years with the poorest people… Father Hugo is a dreamer, he dreams while praying in the church in Chacas…He dreams that these abandoned children could have a future, may be become artists of the Andes. In 1979, first with the help of a Cuzqueño master and later with Italian sculptors, the first workshop of carpenters and sculptors was created…Started with a few kids, and now there are more than 700! The school and workshops are free, the students receive instruction, professional training, food and lodging. The main selection criterion is the level of poverty of their families. The workshops last five years, the programs are recognized by the government and the students obtain the title of sculptors. Thus the Family of Don Bosco's Artisans was born, in order to guarantee the manufacturing of the furniture and sculptures directly in the Andes, and to ensure the future of these students from the material and spiritual points of view. After Chacas, other towns also started getting involved…the family keeps on growing” (1)

You can see the progress in action at the workshops. Padre Lorenzo took us on a tour where you can appreciate their work in different aspects. The participants were giving shape to beautiful pieces of wooden furniture, unique sculptures in wood and stone, and glass work that combine art and love. As father Hugo explains in a letter:

“For the young artisans, it would have been more normal, once learned the job, to emigrate to Lima, closer to the machines, the market, the money…Instead the workshop Don Bosco helps them to stay in their original land close to their families, their elders, and the poor…The profits from the sales of these pieces of art and furniture, goes back entirely to them, the authors and the most poor…Help us to make them known and to improve ourselves!” (2)

As you can tell, he convinced me.

The influence of these programs in Chacas shows in many ways, from the happier mood of its people to the level of development and construction, which differ from other areas. You will be pleasantly surprised by the hospital: it has first-class facilities, equipment and infrastructure, and is very modern and efficient. You can see volunteer doctors that come, mainly from Italy, for months or years. In order to involve local people and provide employment while satisfying a need, they are considering starting a nursing school.

The Basílica between San Luis and Pomayucay, where students are received from different parts of Peru as seminarians, is an impressive piece of architecture in a beautiful natural setting.

Talking about nature, what comes next in this special trip? Crossing the Cordillera Blanca and going from the Callejón de Conchucos to the other side, the better-known Callejón de Huaylas. This is a surreal experience…Picture these impressive mountains with their white peaks. Being among those peaks and the clouds…just like being in heaven! On the way, you also get to enjoy three beautiful and turquoise lakes. So exciting and relaxing at the same time! Then you cross the highest point, and start descending on the other side, tricky road but definitively worth the experience.

A great way to finish this trip was to go to Huaraz for a delicious Italian dinner and wine at Pizza BB! Then 7 km north to Monterrey to relax and enjoy the facilities and fireplace of El Patio, one of our favorite places in the area to rest, relax, read and enjoy the surroundings.

Hope you can also enjoy The Callejón de Conchucos sometime soon! There you can enjoy the mountains and its peaks, appreciate a unique archeological site in Chavin, see the making of beautiful furniture and be witness of a wonderful program in action at Chacas. If you would like more information on Don Bosco or the Callejón de Conchucos, feel free to contact me at 275-5393 or excelint@ec-red.com.

(1) (2) Pamphlet, “Artesanos Don Bosco Peru” (author's translation)

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