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Callao and La Punta - Together in History
Part II - Sight-Seeing and Homes in La Punta
By Christine Mortimer

Typical Italian House in La Punta Photo: Municipalidad de La Punta

Throughout its history, La Punta has welcomed foreign visitors and immigrants. Many houses within the radius of the main square of La Punta belong to, or have belonged to, well-known Italian-Peruvian families.

The Rospigliosi Palace is on Malecón Pardo, and is now an educational centre and may some day be restored. Also along the Malecón are small cebicherías and restaurants, including 'Juanita's, where you can enjoy her excellent picarones.

The Casa Piaggio is on the main square and at present houses the Municipality of La Punta.

Medina is a small street between Malecón Pardo and Calle Tovar. On the second block is a stretch of charming 'rancho' style homes, as can still seen in Ancon or Barranco, and with some luck, in Miraflores. These were the typical seaside homes built by or for the families who came to build the railroads and docks after 1870, when Enrique Meiggs came to Peru to build the Andean Railroad.

Between the 2nd and 5th block of Tovar is a wonderful walk along the shoreline to see the fabulous bird sanctuaries, watch the fishermen digging for live bait, see the rowing teams practicing for a regatta. A perfect place for a picnic!

A short distance from the square is the Casa Falabella, with a very interesting history: In 1924, Don Andrés Noziglia contracted Architect and Builder Agustín J. Ferrari to build him a home with reminiscences of his homeland in Italy. And true to his wishes, the residence was built with an inspiration from the 15th century Italian Renaissance. The Palacio Falabella is often compared to the Palazzo Rucellai in Florence, Italy - built by León Battista Alberti in 1446.

Palacio Rospigliosi Photo: Municipalidad de La Punta

The story goes that in Santiago, Chile in the 1930s; Arnaldo Falabella hired an architect, Guillermo Mancelli, to build a home with all the detail of an Italian Renaissance structure. When Falabella bought this property, he was the owner of a tailor shop which later grew into the well-known department store, Falabella. In Lima, this company is the owner of Saga Falabella.

In La Punta, this home was owned by Don Juan Andrés Arata and Antonieta Magnani Castagnetto until it was bought by the present owner, also of Italian descent. This home has been declared a Historical Monument.

The construction is very solid, and it is interesting to note the home has a basement and an attic (something quite unheard of in Lima!) All the floors are laid with the original Peruvian tiles, a floral design made especially for this home in 1923/4, and are still remarkably beautiful. The doors are cedar and Oregon pine. The front porch is a perfect place for entertaining and enjoying the sea breezes. It is a true example of the Italian homes of the early 20th century in Peru.

Another boardwalk in La Punta is by the Arenilla Beach. Officially, called Malecón Wiese, and is an area that is being re-developed by the Municipality, where you can rent a small boat and ride around the peninsula, and there are larger vessels for trips to San Lorenzo Island. From this area, the distance one can see the shoreline of Miraflores and closer by, the Cogorno family flour mill.

Rancho Style Houses in La Punta Photo: Municipalidad de La Punta

The history of the Cogorno home is clearly linked to the history of the family, many details that represent the progress of this Italian family that immigrated to the New World, faced the challenges and how they succeeded!

Don Eugenio Cogorno was born in La Liguria, Genoa and was only 17 years old when he arrived in Peru in 1911. The years before WWI was an era of massive migration to the Americas in search of the prosperity they offered. At 21, he opened his first panaderia (bakery) and in 1928 he built his first wheat mill in Callao. The prosperity of this family was built on sheer hard work and a goal that propelled them to leave their native land.

They inaugurated their home ten years later. It was the crowning moment of that sought-after prosperity. The inauguration included the President-elect Don Manuel Prado Ugarteche, and the blessing was given by Monsignor Cento, the Vatican's diplomatic representative.

Mrs. Chiara de Cogorno (now 98 years old) is well-known, and credited for her philanthropic work in La Punta. As you drive around, you will see several schools named after her, in recognition for her support. Mrs. Cognorno still lives in her home and is a charming, lively lady whose warm heart shines through her eyes.

As you walk into the garden, the first thing is an ornate marble fountain which was brought from Carrara, as was all the marble in the house. There is a beautiful woman holding a large jar of water that she is pouring into the fountain. Happiness and joy are depicted by the children playing and carrying fruit. There are four ram's heads with garlands of fruit. The message from this fountain could easily be the family's legend: The fruits signify earth's bounty, which can be obtained if one cares for the earth. In other words, depending on how we sow the earth and the manner in which we do this, so will we reap its fruits.

Rancho Style Houses in La Punta Photo: Municipalidad de La Punta

Once inside the house, there is a wrought iron staircase with bronze decorations, with a large marble eagle. This eagle had great significance for Don Eugenio. It represents strength, the ability to fly high and sharp sight. The emblem was used as a trademark, and represented his entrepreneurial spirit.

On the walls are many honours to both Don Eugenio and Sra. Chiara from the Peruvian and Italian governments, blessings from several Popes, not only for their business achievements, but most especially for their philanthropic work. Most representative of all, are the family gathering photos. It is interesting to see how the family grew from one Christmas reunion to another.

As you leave this house, there is a brightly coloured vitraux that filters sunlight into the living room. There is a ship crossing an ocean, seagulls in the sky and an enormous sun which shines over the scene, a clear illusion to the immigrant origins of the Cogorno family.

Continuing around La Punta, there is the Yacht Club, with a dining area on a pier in the Pacific Ocean. From here is a fabulous view of Malecón Figueredo, Cantolao's pebbled beach, yachts (of course!) and on the other pier is La Rana Verde, a wonderful seafood restaurant which is part of the Club Universitario.

Driving through La Punta, you will enjoy its sedate, picturesque setting. But the only way to really 'see' La Punta is by walking leisurely or biking, and chatting with whomever you meet. Like any seaside village, its special charm is its inhabitants…

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