Downtown Lima
Lima, the Beautiful - Its Architectural History 1535-1900 Part II
By Christine Mortimer, pictures from PromPeru
THE CASA DE ALIAGA
The Casa de Aliaga stands at Jirón de la Unión 224, opposite the side entrance to the government palace. It is one of thirty-six houses constructed in 1535. It was built and owned by Jerónimo de Aliaga, one of the original Conquistadors, and has the distinction of having belonged to the same family for 467 years! It is reputed to be the oldest mansion remaining in Lima, and indeed, South America.
Feature to look for: note the house's elevated position. That is because it was built on the same 'huaca' site as the palace. The family occupied the second floor, as was the custom, with the slaves' quarters on the ground floor.
From the ground floor patio, there is a flight of marble steps to the second floor patio, which contains some lovely marble figures and an antique bench and the main entrance to the house. The front door is a beautiful example of Colonial woodwork. The first salon has two lovely old circular windows built up to roof level with colored glass adornments.
Outstanding Features:
- Don't miss the Louis XIV mirrors and furniture.
- Note the dining room ceiling, each of the richly adorned carved squares can be removed for cleaning and preservation!
- In the inner patio is lovely. There is an air of Seville about it.
- The tiled fountain is interesting because it receives its water by gravity from a branch of the Rimac River that runs under the house.
THE CASA DE RIVA-AGÜERO
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In front of the San Agustín church you will see an old colonial mansion with a tall entrance door, wrought iron barred windows, rose-colored stone supports, all under large and glass-enclosed Republican balconies. Colonel Domingo Ramírez de Arellano, a wealthy Spanish merchant, built this house during the last third of the eighteenth century. The house was known as “Casa Ramírez de Arellano”.
It is one of the finest expressions of the late colonial period of architecture: the pre-eminence of the patio, the size of its salons, some with carved paneled ceilings, and magnificent skylight windows, preserve the seal of authenticity of this mansion in spite of the reconstructions after the after the earthquakes in the 19th century and the 1940 one.
Only in the last decade of the past century was the house also known as “Casa Riva-Agüero”, for it became the home of Dona Maria de los Dolores de Osma, Marquise of Montealegre de Aulestia and her husband, Don José Carlos de la Riva-Agüero, parents of the late owner, a Limeño historian and politician, Dr. José de la Riva-Agüero y Osma.
Owned by the same family for almost 200 years, the premises were bequeathed to the Catholic University by Don José de la Riva-Agüero, the last Marquis of Aulestia.
Features to look for:
- The big neoclassical balconies, which were added during the 1850's, and must have replaced the original, carved wooden ones.
- French glass panes replaced the wooden screens of the Moorish influence.
- These changes may help us to understand why the original brick staircase was covered with Italian marble and the bronze lamps were exchanged for crystal chandeliers.
- Only a few pieces of the original colonial furniture remain and share space in the main rooms with French-inspired cabinets, gilded chairs and Spanish and French ornaments.
THE ALAMEDA AND CONVENT OF LOS DESCALZOS
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Viceroy Marquis de Montesclaros inaugurated the Alameda in 1611. Designed as a restful place to stroll, it was also the scene of a number of 17th century duels. By the time Viceroy Amat arrived in Peru in 1761 he found it so neglected that he ordered the fountains to be repaired, trees planted and benches replaced.
In 1856, after being abandoned a second time, the trees were dug up, railings brought from England and considerable money was spent on 12 marble statues imported from Italy representing the months of the year; a dozen gas lights were connected, marble benches placed along the path and bands played in the 'glorietta'.
At the far end of the Paseo is the Franciscan church and monastery of the same name. A native of Corsica, Andres Corso, founded the Convento de los Descalzos in 1592. At that time the monks lived a peaceful and silent communal life, depending on donations for their frugal needs. In 1852, missionaries took over the monastery and it was reported that “Everything breathes of poverty, orderliness and thrift, in contrast to the ostentatious riches of other religious establishments.”
Not so today. The building may be modest, but in the midst of the simplicity, inside there is a magnificent collection of priceless paintings and icons. The oldest section of the convent is now a museum of religious art, with names such as Angelino Medoro, one of the most important painters of the Viceroyalty, and one attributed to Murillo, depicting Saint Joseph with Jesus as a child.
The monastery is a maze of corridors and cloisters. The interior is typical of colonial buildings with interior patios and courtyards. In the center of one of the courtyards is a lovely bronze fountain. The walls are adorned with colorful tiles from Seville, which are just as bright today as they were four hundred years ago.
There is a small chapel dedicated to Nuestra Señora de la Rosa Mística has some beautiful Cuzqueño paintings. It is said that Admiral Grau made his last confession here before the fateful Battle of Angamos.
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