Barranco
Yesterday and Today
By Christine Mortimer
The village of Barranco was founded by the Spaniards who had already settled in the neighboring village of Surco. By the end of the 17th century, Barranco became a frequented seaside resort, and by the Republican era, it was the summer resort for Peruvian upper class families escaping the heat of Lima. Many British and German families built country homes there too.
In her book Peregrinaciones de una Paria, Flora Tristán described Barranco as “an oasis with abundant foliage, large trees and plenty of water”. At this time (the early Republican period), Barranco was known as “The City of Windmills,” as windmills were used to draw water for the houses. Trees bordered the tranquil streets, making Barranco a pleasing and picturesque place to live. After the War with Chile, Barranco became a popular place for the bourgeoisie and intellectuals, and once again a small colony of foreign families chose to live there.
In 1870, the Bajada a los Baños was built in a series of easy slopes down to the sea. Under the shade of the trees, old country homes that lined its path at different levels are still there today. The Bajada, along with La Puente de los Suspiros (the Bridge of Sighs), still evoke that era of romance and nostalgia. The bridge has been an inspiration to artists and poets. Barranco-born Chabuca Granda dedicated her most popular song to “El Puente de los Suspiros”. There are differing explanations for the bridge's name, some say because it is a meeting place for sighing lovers; others say if you hold your breath when you cross the bridge for the first time, your wish will come true. Take your pick!
Every historic monument has its legend, and the Church of La Ermita is no exception. Legend has it that many years ago, a group of fishermen were lost in Lima's winter sea mist for several hours. After praying and searching in the dense darkness, they saw a bright, glittering light in the distance. They rowed towards it and were saved. Once on land, they looked for the place where they had seen the light and found a cross. La Ermita was built on that spot, and today is still very much part of barranquino life.
In 1887, Franciscan monks from the Convento de los Descalzos established an Order in Barranco, and a year later started the construction of a church. This first building was an unusual design with four towers. But it was badly built and was demolished in 1933. The church as we know it today was inaugurated in 1935. Nine years later a monastery was annexed to it. In the attractive Plazuela de San Francisco stands the house of the Peruvian poet, José María Eguren (1882-1942).
The Malecón de los Ingleses (English Promenade) on Calle Junín dates from 1891, when Mr. John Mathison, a British businessman, donated a part of his land for its construction. The Malecón was given its name because of the amount of British families that had settled in the area, building ranch-style houses, of which Mr. Mathison's is one of the best examples of the few remaining intact today. He also built an elegant wooden staircase down to the beach, with handrails made of leftover trans-Atlantic telegraph cables. At the bottom of the stairs, there was a huge wooden doorway onto the beach, which he kept closed with large padlock. Unfortunately, the Malecón suffered considerable damage in the 1940 earthquake, and what little of it remains, is being lost in the surge of buildings that surrounding it.
Amongst the interesting houses in Barranco, is Avenida Grau 428. It is directly in front of the old market. This house was designed in Paris; the plans were brought from France and built by two Frenchmen in 1890. It took 12 years to complete and was first occupied in 1904 by Sr. Juan Esteban Ríos. Barranco-based architect, Vicente de Szyszlo, describes it as being the most representative building of the European architectural influence of that time. “The home combines an almost Neo-classical style with Art-nouveau decorations, along with touches of native themes with esoteric characteristics.” The bronze window grills, copper lights and sculptures were brought from France and the interior was richly furnished. It is said that superb gala balls took place here, and many important personalities graced these occasions.
The Casa Nash dates back to 1900-1902, at the time when eclectic architecture was fashionable. According to its owner, this house is a mixture of Republican style, with a whimsical Venetian influence. The owner's grandparents, Julio Nash and Rosa Campbell, owned an important steel foundry. The lovely wrought-iron grills for the windows and balconies where made there. In 1974, the house was practically demolished by an earthquake and left uninhabitable. The present owner bought it from the heirs, and with the help and skill of an old artisan, they took great care to restore the house's original facade with plaster. Architect Nash Soyer has lived here since 1976. One part of the house is his studio/office, another his home and the top floor is a studio with a view of the streets of Barranco and the ocean.
In 1920, the Casa Checa Eguiguren was designed and constructed by the Polish architect Ricardo Malachowski, who is best know for his eclectic style of architecture, two outstanding examples are the Club Nacional and the Plaza 2 de Mayo. Two years after its construction the Peruvian Government donated it to the Spanish Government, as part of an exchange between the two countries. It is now the Residence of the Spanish Ambassador to Peru. It is a two-story Republican style house, with details that show Malachowski's originality: the combination of parquet flooring with hand-painted tiles from Seville. Some rooms definitely have a French influence, and there is an undertone of Art Nouveau in the beautiful glass arches over the doors.
Sources for this article include The City of Kings a guide to Lima by Carolyn Watson, informative brochures of the Municipalidad de Barranco, La Ermita and conversations with barranquino architects Soyer Nash and Aldo Lertora.
Please join The American Women's Literary Club in our next AWLC Home Tour to La Punta/Callao on Thursday on December 1, 2005. |
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Barranco has always had the reputation of being an intellectual and bohemian haven. A number of artists and artisans have their workshops here. Antique shops abound, and several new art galleries are opening their doors to visitors. There are many restaurants and pubs. So as tradition dictates, today's Barranco continues to have a lively and social nightlife.
One of Peru's greatest poets, Abraham Valdelomar once said, “I come to Barranco to wash my spirit in the diaphanous sky and perfume.” Let's do just that!
