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Miraflores
Ten Millenia of Civilization
By Christine Mortimer

When feminist Flora Tristán came to Lima in the 1830's, she considered Miraflores to be “the most beautiful village I have visited in South America.” A decade later, Swiss naturalist Johann Jakob von Tschudi mentions the small village with its plaza and neatly built houses. Neither would recognize the prosperous present-day suburb of Lima, with its elegant restaurants, department stores, and tall, ultra-modern buildings!

Dr. Isabel Flores Espinosa, head of the Huaca Pucllana Archeological Project, while studying the origins of Miraflores, found that 10,000 years ago, groups of nomadic fishermen and farmers known as 'parjanenses' built camps in the area. Finding that there was abundant flora and fauna, the descendents of these first groups chose to stay and built homes together thus forming small villages.

Four thousand years later, these bustling villages were growing crops of beans, squash, broad beans, pumpkins, hot peppers, peanuts, corn and cotton. By 1,000 B.C. pagan beliefs led the villagers to create a form of government ruled by the priests who could communicate with the gods. By the 2nd century A.D., the villages had expanded and the Huaca Pucllana was the center of power. By then, irrigation ditches had been dug to channel the water from the Rimac River, and reed boats (totoras) were used for fishing. Pottery-making developed, as well as textile weaving and metal work.

Between 700 and 1,000 A.D., this thriving population was conquered by the Wari culture based in Ayacucho and the area was abandoned. When the Wari empire fell, the villagers of today's Miraflores re-grouped into the jurisdictions of Huadca and Sulco. In 1460, the Incas invaded the area and the local chieftains were replaced by an Inca governor, who little more than half a century later, was replaced by Spanish colonial authorities.

An estate, made up of what are now known as Miraflores, Surquillo and San Borja, was given to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, who named it San Miguel de Miraflores. Beside the luxurious Spanish mansions, humble residences were built for the natives who worked the land and served the Spanish lords. These natives belonged to the Señorio de Sulco, whose chieftain was Tanta Chumbe, and to Chieftain Chumbe Charman's territory of Huadca. During the 18th century, the Fathers of the Order began selling plots, and in 1800 Fray José de Azero bought the land named Miraflores.

Miraflores was the scene of a meeting of General San Martín and Viceroy Pezuela to negotiate an amnesty pact, which ultimately failed. Following Peruvian Independence, building began and Miraflores fast became a popular resort for the rich and famous. In the early 19th century, it had some 15 ranchos and 200 - 300 inhabitants.

By 1857, there were over a thousand inhabitants in Miraflores, thus giving it the title of “district.” The first mayor was Guillermo Schell. He and Domingo Porta were instrumental in urbanizing Miraflores, selling land to English, German, French, Italian and Swiss immigrants who brought with them new technology, traditions and cultural interests.

During the War of the Pacific, Miraflores was strategic as Lima's last defense against the Chilean forces. On January 15th, 1881, six thousand people fought fiercely from four redoubts (Parques del Reducto) to defend Lima, which earned Miraflores the title of “Ciudad Heroica” (Heroic City).

Progress and development continued into the 20th century. During this time, the Lima-Chorrillos streetcar line and Avenida Leguía (now Avenida Arequipa) were inaugurated. The 1940 earthquake destroyed many of the old neighborhoods, but they were replaced by new urbanizations called San Antonio and Santa Cruz. The Miraflores Municipal Government building was built in 1944, the Puente Villena Rey was built to span the cobble stoned Bajada Balta in 1968, and the Central Park was remodeled in the 1990s by Mayor Alberto Andrade. Some of the newest additions to Miraflores are overlooking the Pacific. These include the Parque del Amor (Lover's Park) and the Sunset Park, featuring massive sculptures by the artists Víctor Delfín and Fernando Szyszlo, respectively, and the massive constructions of the Marriott Hotel and Larcomar.

Always proud of its history, Miraflores has boasted illustrious neighbors, such as the writer Ricardo Palma (whose home is now a museum), archeologist Julio C. Tello, and historian Raúl Porras Barrenechea, amongst many others. But looking to the future, it is one of the most progressive and important districts of Lima, thanks to its commerce, cultural events, its emphasis on tourism and recreational sites.

-- Sources for this article include book The City of Kings - a Guide to Lima by Carolyn Walton, “Mi Distrito” from El Comercio newspaper and, “Miraflores en la Historia del Peru”, a brochure of the the Municipal Government of Miraflores and the Parque Histórico Cultural Pucllana. It was first produced for the American Women's Literary Club's Home Tour in October 2004.