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Destination Bolivia
The Cordillera Real
By Matt Blake, South American Explorers Correspondent

Laguna Chiar Khota in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia. Photo by Matt Blake

The Cordillera Blanca is one of the most magnificent mountain ranges in the world. People come from all over the world to discover the many jewels it has to offer. In fact, there are so many people entering the area in the months of June and July that the more adventurous are beginning to look elsewhere to satiate their adventurous spirit. If you are one of those people who like to be surrounded by what nature has to offer, then you might want to look south. Across beautiful Lake Titicaca in Bolivia lies an equally beautiful mountain range called the Cordillera Real.

European climbers have called it the “Himalayas of the New World.” In the 100-mile- long Cordillera Real there are over 600 mountains above 5000m/16,000ft, and six mountains above 6000m/19,500ft. In addition to the towering glaciated peaks, the area is full of pristine aqua blue lakes and broad valleys. Its close proximity to the city of La Paz makes the Cordillera Real easily assessable. Along with the beauty of the mountains comes the splendor of discovering the very traditional and unique indigenous culture that is still a large component in Bolivia's social atmosphere. Below are just two suggestions for experiencing Bolivia's mountain paradise.

The adventurous can test their altitude limits on Huayna Potosi. This beautiful mountain is quite popular due to its accessability and its being an amateur-level climb. It is a perfect opportunity to attain the coveted 6,000-meter altitude barrier that is sought after by many climbers in South America. Guided tours leave La Paz daily; the entire expedition will take about 3 days. One must be both acclimated to the altitude and be physically fit. A good guide will be able to provide instruction and safely in leading you to the top. The reward of being able to see Lake Titicaca, the Amazon and beyond is unimaginable.

Huayna Potosi in the Cordillera Real of Boliva. Photo by Matt Blake

People who want to access a more remote nook in these wonderful mountains may wish to look to the Condoriri. The walk to Laguna Chiar Khota alone makes this trip worth it. In fact, for those who have no interest in scaling the sides of mountains, this area makes an idyllic camp to just sit back and let the beauty seep in your soul. It is an easy two-hour drive from La Paz to the village of Tuni. Here one can rent a mule or llama for $3-$5 dollars a day to carry your camping equipment. The walk from Tuni to Laguna Chiar Khota is a pleasant 3-4 hour journey. The ascent is quite gradual and the trail is smooth. You will be greeted along the way with views of the imposing Western Face of Huayna Potosi, and the mountains that form the Cabeza de Condor and its wings. There are a number of turquoise lakes that will occupy your mind, or your fishing rod, for days at a time. Whether fishing, climbing, or just relaxing under the splendor of the mountains, you are sure to find a utopian outdoor world in this region.

The Cordillera Real of Bolivia, although becoming more popular among tourists, is still a relatively undiscovered gem in South America. The two areas that are described above are fairly popular by Bolivia standards, but this is just the small tip of a huge iceberg. The opportunities for discovery are limitless here. So grab your boots, compass, and map and start exploring!

Getting there: Flying to La Paz from anywhere outside of Bolivia is expensive due to the high altitude landing equipment needed to land at the airport. You should expect round trip tickets to be at least $400 from Lima. If you have the time, try to fly to Juliaca, Peru, and enjoy a tour of Lake Titicaca on your way to La Paz. From Juliaca, it will take about 7 hours to get to La Paz overland. This trip can be made enjoyable with stops in Puno and Copacabana on the shore of Lake Titicaca.

Guide Services: I recommend the certified guiding services of Mountains and Jungle out of La Paz. This company is well-run and the guides are friendly, safe and professional. Be sure that if you use a guide that they are certified and are willing to be flexible to suit your needs.