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Destination Peru
How High Can You Go? The Lima-to-Huancayo Train
By Tanilee Eichelberger, South American Explorers

Pucará Church Photo by Tanilee Eichelberger

I can still remember the first time the silhouette of gladiolas towered over a sun-kissed women's face. Her cheeks were chapped by the cold, and she was carrying long stem flowers on her back wrapped in a manta (multi-purpose cloth) that was more colorful than the gladiolas she carried. Although I was never able to capture that image in a photo, this memory remains one incentive for me to return to Huancayo on the highest train in the world since having lived there in 2003.

If not on board the morning on July 28th, you will have to wait until 2006 to enjoy the highest train ride in the world. The Lima-to-Huancayo train will run ONCE this year departing for Festias Patrias on July 28th and returning Sunday the 31st. A roundtrip ticket will cost $35 and may be purchased through Teleticket at Wong and Metro supermarkets in Lima. Tickets should be purchased as soon as possible to ensure their availability. The 12-hour journey reaches its highest point at Ticlio, 4,829 meters above sea level. The 335km track includes 66 tunnels, 59 bridges, 22 zigzags, and a steep gradient of 4.37 degrees.

President Manuel Pardo (1872-1876) proposed the construction of the railway to transport mineral ores (copper and zinc) from mines in the Andes to Lima. Built between 1870 and 1908, the railway later transported farm produce from the eastern slope of the Andes highland jungle into the western Andes and on to Lima. The passenger service was stopped in 1992 as a result of terrorist activities, and limited service was not resumed until 2003.

Huancayo retains much of its Andean culture for strictly intrinsic purposes. The name Huancayo comes from the word “Huanca.” Huanca/Wanka is the name of the local indigenous group who claimed Valle Montaro. The Wanka was one of the indigenous cultures that was never conquered by the Incas. Later, when the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century, the Wanka were one of the many indigenous groups that joined forces with the Spaniards to conquer and defeat the Incan Empire.

Once travelers arrive to Huancayo, there are plenty of activities and destinations throughout Valle Montaro. You should book your hotel before arriving due to the large number of tourists during Festias Patrias. There are a couple of highly recommended places to stay, ranging from a 3-star hotel right on the plaza to a local family run hostel 10 minutes from the center of Huancayo. The first, El Márquez, caters mostly to professionals sent to Huancayo for work. It is located right next to the Church on a side street off the main plaza. Rooms start at S/.90 a night. You can visit it at www.elmarquezhuancayo.com.

If you don't mind a walk away from the plaza and are interested in staying a bit closer to the hills in a family-run hostel, then you should stay at Casa Angina www.geocities.com/peruandino_1/ It has been around for many years, offering 7 rooms in a private home for travelers at $5 a night. Señora Juana provides breakfast such as toast, fruit, juice and coffee.

Statue of Huancayina in Pucará Photo by Tanilee Eichelberger

Huancayo has always been a hub of business and local trade center in the Andes. Even today, the local Sunday market provides the finest quality of goods while also justly reflecting Andean culture and arts. Detailed carved gourds from Cochas Chica, silver from Ingénino the variety of textiles, alpaca clothing, tapestries, jewelry and paintings are all exquisite. The market moved in 1976, and now sits on Avenida Huancavelica (parallel to Calle Real), conveniently located near Plaza de Constitución. This market is not to be missed.

Other attractions in and around Huancayo include:

Warivilca Ruins - Close to Wari, the ruins are located 25 KM from Huancayo. They are pre-Incan ruins accredited to the Huanca culture.

Parque de la Identidad - Pasaje San Antonio in the San Carlos Barrio located in the northeastern part of Huancayo. This entire park of detailed mosaics is designed and constructed by hundreds and millions of pebbles dedicated to the folklore and culture of the Huanca.

La Casa del Artesano - Located on the main Plaza de Constitución travelers can pick up a wide variety of local arts and crafts.

Torre Torre - Only one kilometer from Huancayo, travelers can find deep red natural land formations due to years of erosion.

Ingenio - Located in Valle Montaro near Concepcíon. There are trout farms and a variety of restaurants. The best cebiche de trucha can be found at a restaurant providing indoor and outdoor dining. A meal includes access to incredible ruins with waterfalls and pools of trout.

Huaytapallana - Located 25 kilometers from the city of Huancayo, it peaks at over 5,000 meters above sea level. Great mountain for trekking and climbing.

If you are not able to make it for Festias Patrias this year on the train, from which you can enjoy the Andean lakes and hillside views, at least make it to Huancayo for the gladiolas. For more information and details on Huancayo, visit the South American Explorers office.