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Destination Peru
Addicted to Iquitos
By Tanilee Eichelberger, South American Explorers

Dawn on the Yanayuca River. Photo by Analia Sarfaty Paez, Muyuna.

The geographical isolation of Iquitos results in cultural preservation from much of the outside world, including the terrorism in Peru during the 1980's. It is the impermeable northern Amazon jungle that protects the city of Iquitos, reachable only by plane or boat. Such isolation ensures the distinctive cultural preservation of Iquiteños. This is evident through their prominent and distinct Spanish accent, culinary food specialties and cultural beliefs. Their intrinsic ties to the land ensure an authentic experience of the Peruvian Amazon to a rhythm known only in Iquitos.

The town of Iquitos is calm and laid back with a deep sense of security. A peaceful walk along the boulevard will allow the suns reflection off the Amazon water light your face up with imagination as you ponder the vastness the of surrounding jungle.

In the main plaza not only will you find the church lit up as all plazas throughout South America, but tourists can also visit the Amazon Museum with a wide variety of native plants and animals. The constant buzz of motor taxis is sure to bring an entirely unique feel to the city, as cars are nearly non-existent along the main roads.

Victoria Regia Lily Pad. Photo by Analia Sarfaty Paez, Muyuna.

Where to Stay
When staying a night before or after an exotic jungle excursion, a comfortable stay at Victoria Regia hotel offers pick up to and from the airport in a company van. Rooms start at $50.00 for a single. Visa accepted.
www.victoriaregiahotel.com.

What to do
A must see while in the town of Iquitos includes a trip to Belen, the local market. Just ask a mototaxi to take you to “Los Chinos.” From this point, walk to the port and rent a canoe and guide. Through the canoe tour, travelers experience first hand how jungle villagers sell their fruits and herbs to locals. You may want to look for the “Pasaje Paquito,” also known as the shamans drug store, selling goods for healing ceremonies.

A visit the “Butterfly Farm” in Padre Concha Village offers a fabulous daytime excursion. Ms Goody, an Austrian biologist has created this heaven for butterflies amongst waterfalls and flowers enclosed by a tent. From Iquitos, take a mototaxi to Bellavista or Nanay port. From Nanay port, enjoy the 20-minute boat ride to Padre Conche. Be forewarned, if the river is too low, it may not be a direct boat route to Padre Conche, instead the journey may require a final 15-minute walk to reach the farm. It is not recommended during rainy season, as butterflies do not fly in the rain.

If a local watering hole suites your fancy, try waterskiing, swimming and canoeing at Santo Tomas Village, a popular destination on Sundays frequented by locals and not far away from the airport.

Where to eat
With so much to do in Iquitos, travelers are sure to muster up a mean appetite. “Fitzcarraldo” is the best restaurant in town with views facing the Amazon River. In and outdoor patio dining offers an experience and ambiance with a typical dish of “lagarto” or cayman. These delicious caymen skewers are marinated in a mouth-watering pineapple BBQ and served with fried plantains and yucca. Dinner for two with typical salad and a refreshing pitcher of lemonade runs about 80 soles.

For lunch, the local and tourist favorite is “Huasi.” Typical food from this region includes dishes such as the locally caught fish Dorado as well as an exquisite amazon salad known as “Chonta.” Chonta is taken from the inside fibers of a native tree from the amazon. It is white, paper thin, smooth and fibrous texture looks like linguine, but is a vegetable often served with avocado, tomato and an olive oil dressing with salt and pepper for the exotic vegetable and refreshing salad. Menu is 7 soles for lunch.

Who to book a tour with
After flying all the way to Iquitos ($170.00 RT), the traveler must venture out of the city and experience the saturation of wildlife in the Amazon. The two-hour boat ride south of Iquitos insures the best opportunity to see wildlife, including special bird watching tours through Muyuna, (whirlpool in the native language - www.muyuna.com).

While at the lodge with Muyuna, I was able to hike through the jungle in knee-high rain boots to see pink-toed tarantulas, a baby anaconda, walking palm trees and leaf carrying ants. After dinner, we went out to search for Caymans using a flashlight to spot their eyes out in the night. The guides pick them up, and hold them by their neck and tail, even offering tourists the opportunity to hold the oddly sedate reptiles. I myself was not so brave. Mornings were spent fishing for Piranhas, later fried by local cooks and served for dinner. Other daytrips include using a sonogram to listen to the grey and pink dolphins communicating under water; they sound just like whales. South American Explorer Members receive a 10 % discount off Muyuna tours.

If you mange to escape Lima and are interested in a genuine non-spoiled experience of the Amazon jungle, visit Iquitos and feel its rhythm. You will not regret it. I was there in February, again in March for Semana Santa, and will return in July. What can I say, I'm addicted…

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