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Chop Sticks & Chow Mein
Part III of the Adventures of Our roving Restaurant Night Chairman in China
By Jim Plunkett

Chinese empress in tennis shoes with gringo impostor

After a most enjoyable visit to Beijing to pay tribute to Chairman Mao, and a close look at Xìan, home of the famous terra cotta army of 8,000 soldiers, we headed farther south to the city of Guilin.

Guilin is a rather sub-tropical area of southern China. It is blessed with green valleys that permit one to admire the beauty of low, rolling mountains covered in vegetation lining the Lijiang River. A minibus took us from the city to a dock where we found a series of riverboats with all the comforts of home. An upper deck provided an ideal place to enjoy the constantly changing scenery, and a fine buffet lunch was served on the way.

After our river jaunt, we were taken to several deep caves where the odd shapes formed by stalactites and stalagmites are illuminated in a fashion that helps you stretch your imagination as to weird formations. Fun!

Following a few days in Guilin, we headed even farther south to Shenzhen, a city of 8 million people that has sprung up in the last 15 years and looks like something out of Architect's Digest. Spectacular buildings, 8-lane boulevards, beautiful landscaping and parks, and a great climate. The malls are extremely attractive, making Miami look like a farm town. At night, we could see the lights of Hong Kong off in the distance.

After a wonderful day and evening of touring around the city and savouring some of the best food ever at exclusive candle-lit restaurants, we prepared for our visit to Hong Kong. Despite it's incorporation into mainland China a few years ago, it is still treated as an independent territory. Both mainlanders and foreigners have to pass Customs and Immigration. A half-hour ride on a very modern transit train system put us in Kowloon, where we took the famous Star Ferry to the island of Hong Kong.

What a fun place! Lots of hustle and bustle, but in an orderly fashion. It reeks of commercial activity, and it´s common to see Rolls Royces and big Mercedes cruising the streets. A late afternoon visit to The Peak via a double-decker bus gave us a memorable view of Hong Kong's bay and modern skyscrapers. I almost jumped out the window when I saw a sign saying “Plunkett Lane” near The Peak. A spacious cable car took us down the hill after a delightful few hours admiring the panorama and observing the fancy homes of wealthy merchants and expats who inhabit The Peak.

We ended up in Times Square, the sequel of the NYC version, where shopping and beautiful malls and stores attract your attention until you end up spending a wad on gadgets, clothing and accessories. The cuisine rivals that of Lima, and is as varied as it can get.

Back to Shenzhen a few days later, and we hated to leave. As we awaited our flight to Beijing, a familiar figure came strolling down the airport's fast belt… Scott Snively, friend and fellow Lima expat who was as shocked as we were to have crossed in a country of 1.3 billion inhabitants, and so far from home. Scott was on a typical business trip, promoting his Peruvian fish meal. China is Peru's biggest market for this modern commodity used principally as fish food.

Beijing was starting to look more familiar. What most impresses you is the cleanliness, the discipline and respect of the people in the streets, and the progress. Late model vehicles with lead-free gasoline that don't emit smoke, multi-lane boulevards, busses and subways, and some of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen are commonplace.

As for food, everywhere you turn there is a “chifa.” It reminded me of Lima where we have an estimated 3,000 Chinese restaurants of all shapes, sizes, and qualities. And, of course, good old McDonald's and the “Chain Gang” have become embedded in the big cities, much to my chagrin. Beyond Chinese delicacies, you can find Thai, Brazilian, German, Russian, Japanese, and just about anything your heart desires. Cost of living? High for the locals, low for us gringos.

Heading home to Lima was the most difficult part of the whole trip. Good hotels and service, great food, wonderful people, spectacular bargains, outstanding shows and historical sites like the Great Wall, the Forbidden City and above all, the terra cotta army in X`ian made for the most impressive trip yet, and I have done my share of globetrotting.

If you are so inclined, we are returning to China next year in September, the best weather month in China, when we are planning to hit the restaurants, delve deeper into historical sites, and take advantage of the shopping and you are all invited!

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