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Destination Peru
“Cuyaquihuayi” in Vicos
by Tanilee Eichelberger

Although I love the city life of Lima, I cannot deny the fact that my true heart lies in the mountains. Naturally, I was keen to visit a rapidly growing town in Ancash. Outside of Huaraz (3,090 meters) lies Vicos, a town of 6,000 inhabitants. My first trip to Huaraz was much anticipated, as it is a popular trekking and climbing destination. Even more valuable was the opportunity to live with a local Quechua-speaking family working with the Mountain Institute www.mountain.org in an eco-tourism project initiated by Urpichallay www.urpichallay.com.

The author with Vicocino friends

I first left Lima at eleven in the evening so I could snooze my way into the twilight dawn. Once I arrived I took advantage of the incomplete night's rest to acclimate until midmorning. I highly recommend staying at Olazas www.andeanexplorer.com/olaza when in Huaraz. The newly remodeled terraces, freshly painted in sun-kissed peach, charge the going rate in Huaraz of $10.00 a night. As a three-story hotel, Olazas offers convenient rooftop dining with a spectacular view of Huascarán and more. If you want to get out and try uniquely distinct cafes, the following are my two favorites. Not only does California Café offer wireless Internet, but they also offer homemade Chai tea. Another must see for dining is Café Andino. The views there are absolutely the grandest in all of Huaraz.

After getting a bite to eat and adjusting to the altitude, you can hop into a combi to Marcara. For a couple of soles you can enjoy the Andean scenery of eucalyptus-filled highland hills. I was there during the dry season, and I can only imagine how those hills must fester with vegetation and greenery in the months to come. Once I arrived in Marcara I was sure to stock up on supplies because this was my last opportunity to pick up fresh fruits, tissue paper and batteries before entering the town of Vicos. From Marcara, you catch one last combi into Vicos.

Visitors can learn more about Vicocinos at the “Casa de los Abuelos,” the town's local museum on the main plaza. “Casa de los Abuelos” includes an explanation of the social organization, including how the community purchased their land in 1963, as well as farming and festival calendars, medicinal plants, kinship ties and typical dress. A private tour with local guides can be arranged through the Mountain Institute. Otherwise, the museum is locked and not accessible to the public.

The Vicos community is dedicated to mostly agriculture and the raising of animals for self-consumption, rather than outside markets. Although Vicocinos raise donkeys, cows, bulls, hens, and guinea pigs (“cuy”), they have recently introduced tourism into their community. It began as a pilot program with Cuyaquihuayi (Casa Bonita or Beautiful Home), offering traditional meals, modest living cottages with fireplaces, and latrines to tourists. Although candles are provided, it's a good idea to bring flashlights, for there is currently no electricity. There are six cottages that have been built within the community equipped to sustain 5 visitors each.

Daily activities with local families include shearing sheep, spinning and dying wool with natural dyes, baking bread in clay ovens, grinding hot peppers on stone slabs, planting a variety of potatoes, visiting nearby natural hot springs and steam rooms, fishing, and visiting local artisans such as textile and basket weavers. All of these activities are absolutely spectacular, and even more gratifying when given the opportunity to actively engage in them.

The women of the house wake at four in the morning to prepare breakfast, including yours. I was spoiled by the homemade honey and waking to panoramic mountain views of Urus, Tocallaraju, and on the other side of the cottage, Huascarán. Watching the fog and clouds dance effortlessly through the channels of the wind, created by the dynamic pressure surrounding the mountains make it easy to understand why the Quechua word for mountain is “Apu,” or god.

Day trips can be arranged to nearby lakes and ruins. You can travel on foot or horseback. The three-hour trek ascends to Laguna Llacshec. If this easy-to-mid level of difficulty is not up to par for serious trekkers, a more-lengthy day trip is offered as well. La Laguna Legia Cocha has a mid-to-high level of difficulty: a day trek will take an average of six hours to arrive at the lake and a good four hours to return. It is also possible to camp at the lake and extend the journey for two days. I enjoyed a short day hike to the ruins where, upon our arrival we sat and enjoyed local dishes prepared and carried by the women in their “mantas,” clothes used to carry everyday items on their backs. These meals would nourish us so we were able to return to the cottages with sufficient energy.

If you are looking for a long weekend away from Lima, this stay just over an hour outside of Huaraz will surely quench your thirst for a down-to-earth experience. The scenery is majestic and the activities are numerous and highly satisfying. When you do go, this Quechua word will come in handy, “Pakinamamay,” which means, “Thank you, Senora.”

Tanilee Eichelberger is the Manager of the South American Explorers Club Lima Office.

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